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Giulia CARABELLI

Trieste, a memory walk

Piazza Unità d'Italia (panoramic view). As for every tour, we start from Trieste’s main square, Piazza Unità, built during the Habsburg Empire. Its buildings date from the late 18th to the 19th centuries. The square opens directly onto the Adriatic Sea and it’s considered the largest seafront square in Europe. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

View from ‘The Rive’. Walking from the main square, along the sea, the view is breath-taking. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Caffe degli Specchi. Back, in Piazza Unità, it’s possible to sit for a coffee in one of the historical cafes of Trieste, Caffe degli Specchi, the only one remaining of the original four occupying the square. Opened in 1839, it’s popular among tourists and locals for its unique atmosphere, a reminder of the imperial past. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Karl VI. This statue was uncovered during Karl’s visit to the city in 1728. He is remembered and celebrated for declaring Trieste a free port in 1719. Later, in 1740, his daughter, Maria Theresia, pushed the borders of the Free Port to the outskirts of the city, which attracted many traders looking for new markets. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Piazza della Borsa. Few meters away, the Commodity Exchange (Italian: Borsa Merci) was funded in 1755 by Maria Theresia and it is the oldest in the world. Besides being the historical financial centre of the city, the square is also considered one of its most important meeting places. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Casa Bartoli. Also in the square, just in front of the Palazzo della Borsa Vecchio (the Old Commodity Exchange building), stands an interesting liberty house designed by Max Fabiani, the famous Slovenian-Italian architect, in 1905. Impossible not to notice the banner, ‘Free Territory of Trieste’ (TLT) hanging from the main balcony. After World War II, Trieste was part of a Free Territory under the UN administration to accommodate its multi-ethnic population in a neutral country. The TLT lasted until 1975 when its territory was split between Italy and Yugoslavia. The movement Trieste Libera – Svobodni Trst has been fighting a legal battle to bring back Trieste’s special status and for its territory to leave Italy. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Da Pepi. Few steps away from Piazza Borsa, a crowd of curious and frequent visitors, waits to enter Da Pepi, a very popular fast food restaurant that serves delicacies from the Habsburg tradition, mainly meat, cooked in caldaia (in big pots under the counter). (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Café Urbanis. On the way from Piazza Borsa to Piazza Unità, there is another historical café, the Urbanis. Opened in 1832, during the latest renovation works, an original fresco was uncovered (in the picture). It’s frequented mostly in the evening for its cocktails and aperitifs. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Sinagogue and Café San Marco. This imposing synagogue, opened in 1912, stands as a reminder of the importance of the Jewish community in Habsburg Trieste (before the construction of this synagogue, there were other four, smaller in size). Next to the Synagogue, one of the most famous historical venues of the city, Café San Marco. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Caffè San Marco. Celebrated by intellectuals and writers for its special atmosphere, Café San Marco remains a fundamental meeting place. There are curious tourists, residents meeting for playing chess and read the newspapers, students preparing for exams, and businessmen arranging meetings. First opened in 1914, the café was destroyed during World War I by Austro-Hungarian troops, it lay abandoned for years before being reopened. The last refurbishment was in 2013 when a book shop was added, contributing to the intellectual life of the city. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Strada Napoleonica, obelisk. This obelisk is in Opicina (Opčine in Slovenian), a largely Slovenian-speaking area in the periphery of Trieste. The obelisk commemorates Emperor Franz I who built here, in 1830, a new route that allowed a quicker access to Trieste city centre (and the harbour). (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Strada Napoleonica, View. From the obelisk, it’s possible to take a pedestrian route, called Napoleonica, connecting Opicina to the town of Prosecco, overlooking the sea. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Strada Napoleonica, The Castle of Miramare. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

The Castle of Miramare was built by Maximilian of Habsburg at the end of the 1850s. He took residence here with his wife, Charlotte, before they moved to Mexico, where Maximiliam died. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

View from Miramare. The view from the castle towards the city, which is few kilometres away. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

The Church of Saint Spyridion, the Serbian Orthodox Church, was opened in 1868. The Serbian community has been a constant presence in the city since the 18th century and counted many wealthy merchants in the Habsburg Empire. Another church was built here in 1751 to host the celebrations of the Orthodox Christians in Trieste. After a major split between the Greek and Serb communities, the church of Saint Spyridion was demolished and rebuilt in 1861 in its current Byzantine style. The existing Serbian community counts 10.000 members. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

The Post Office. The building facing Piazza Vittorio Veneto was built in between 1890 and 1894 and it currently hosts the Postal and Telegraphic Museum of the Mitteleuropa, where it is possible to view memorabilia from the Habsburg mailing system. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

A Habsburg mailbox in the postal museum (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Narodni Dom – its memories. Narodni Dom was the headquarter of the Slovenian community in Trieste. Designed by Max Fabiani in 1904, it included a theatre, a bank and a hotel, the famous Hotel Balkan. The building was burnt down by fascists in 1920 as the result of growing tensions between the Italian and the Slovenian (and more generally Slavic) population. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

Narodni Dom - the new building. The building was reconstructed in 1923 and re-opened to become the site of the prestigious School for Interpreters and Translators (SSLMIT). Since 2004, the School hosts a permanent exhibition about the history of the building curated by the Slovenian community of Trieste. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

The train station was opened in 1857 as part of the Vienna-Trieste railway wanted by the Habsburgs. The new connection proved crucial to generate new financial incomes for the city. In the square outside the station, the statue of Empress Elisabeth, best remembered as Sissi. (Photo: Giulia Carabelli)

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This collection of photographs represents the fieldwork activities of our researchers. All social scientific research at the Institute, particularly concerning informed consent and involving visual materials, is designed to follow the ethical guidelines formulated by the American Anthropological Association (see http://www.aaanet.org/profdev/ethics/upload/Statement-on-Ethics-Principles-of-Professional-Responsibility.pdf).

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